So I’m on the Metro the other day and I hop off at my destination but just as the subway doors close behind me I have a mini panic attack- oh no! Where’s Tanya? Again … riding in the bike lane approaching an intersection: crosswalk flashing red- 4, 3, 2 … OK, better slow down because we are both not going to make it across in time … oh, yeah, it’s just me.

“Her voice was soft and cool, her eyes were clear and bright, but she’s not there”

It’s been three days since the other bear boarded a Boeing bound for Bergstrom and I’m still looking for her in my rear-view mirror.

Huh?

I’ve been blessed in my life with the friendship and company of female traveling partners of the highest caliber. Shawn, Amanda, Jaclyn, Alisa, Lauren – are your ears burning? And of course, Tanya (the bear, not the bike, silly). I`m talking ’bout beautiful, tough, low-drag, aerodynamically optimized babes with fire in their bellies and the thirst to surf the wave of life. Women with the esprit de corps to accept generosity with geniality and face adversity with alacrity. Hmmm … sounds like another awesome gal I knew … my mother, Betty.

Tanya has proven no exception and although I’m sad to see her return to “normal” life, I am truly grateful for the time (and buckets of rice) we’ve shared over the past weeks. Our ride together featured 589 miles over terrain ranging from muddy snowmobile tracks in Maine to serious climbing on sketchy roads in Québec, most of it while enduring cold and damp weather conditions. It seemed like the tougher the going got the tougher Tanya became and I admire her natural proclivity ever to seek the intrinsic beauty and humor in every challenge. She is a joy to have in my life and I am proud to count her among my dearest friends. Her untamed enthusiasm and earnest curiosity keeps me young and her irreverent, unbridled sense of humor is my personal panacea. Thank you, Tanya, for being your awesome self and giving me a boost of encouragement at the commencement of my journey.

In front of Leonard Cohen’s house

Rubbing skulls with Joselito

What a stroke of luck- our second crash pad in Québec ended up being about 100 meters from Maude’s apartment. We were able to get settled quickly with Noemie and Marc and our new friends took us on a quick walking tour so we could get our bearings and do a little exploring of our own.

Weather was crappy so I’ve included this photo of the boardwalk from a previous trip to Québec

Still a little fatigued from the road and adverse weather, Tanya and I were content with a stroll around the cobblestone streets and fortifications of Old Québec with a timely return to the flat for another eating session.

A word about our hosts

Marc and Noemie had recently returned from an epic year-and-a-half long bicycle journey through the Americas. Naturally we were intrigued to hear all about their adventure and also about the challenges of returning to “normal” life. Unfortunately for us, our hosts had a previous engagement to attend that evening so our visit was cut short.

Marc and Noemie at Salar de Uyuni

It is not my intention to sound ungrateful for the time we were given with our new friends, but Tanya and I were a little sad about not having more time to enjoy the social dynamic we shared as a group as well as individually with our hosts. The invitation to stay was extended but the combination of impending weather and work schedules made it impractical to accept this generosity; we still had the ride to Montréal in the rain ahead of us, a bike to break down and pack, and a plane for Tanya to catch back to Austin. I will be sure to reserve more time and resources for my return to “La Vieille Capitale.”

Tanya with cellophane-wrapped Noemie

Marc et moi

OK so maybe not everyone who follows this blog is a Cool Hand Luke fan but I had to use that line at some point.

Poutine: recommend early and often

So it’s now a verifiable fact that Tanya bears eat Poutine with voracity. What do Robears do? … Crap in the woods like all the other bears, of course. Out of respect for my audience I’ll skip the details of a particular nature call that solicited such an immediate answer that I forgot my years of training and scampered off into a mosquito and black fly infested fen without insect repellent. Needless to say I emerged most non-triumphantly with the burning desire to butter my raspberry muffins liberally with hydrocortisone cream.

Poo-tine: recommend only as needed

So we are underway and after a week on the road Tanya Bear and Robear are hitting their stride. The ride over the last three days from Saint-Siméon to Québec City has featured 2100 meters (6890 ft.) of climbing along the north shore of the Saint Lawrence river through the region of Charlevoix and enough mosquito bites to make me look like a poster boy for a chicken pox vaccination campaign. The weather has been wet and cold for the most part but our dynamic duo has been blessed with some pretty sweet and stealthy campsites in the wilderness of scenic Québec. Being lulled to sleep by rivers rolling over lightly bouldered narrows and feasting on a steady diet of Charlevoix cheese and pâté has made it worth every grueling hill climb. The damp chill of the night is soon alleviated by the welcoming warmth of the folks ’round these parts and my crappy French is more a source of amusement rather than ridicule. Made it into Québec City Saturday evening and, after some initial difficulty, managed to secure diggings on short notice with our generous host, Maude, in the quaint neighborhood of Limoilou. Our plan is to explore the city on Sunday and spend another night here before heading toward Montréal on the bike path.

¿Cómo te llamas?

“Bring me moose and squirrel!”

Our rides, Tanya & Toulouse near La Malbaie, QC